CRX Enclosure

8 years 9 months ago #1 by AK74
I just bought the car three weeks ago its a 1988 crx and im at the point where im going to start building the enclosure and want to get an idea of where to start at if subs forward port back? Subs up port forward? Or subs up port back?
I will be using two 12" sundown audio z v.2 woofers and a sundown audio saz 3500 amplifier at .5 ohms and a odyssey pc-1700 battery three runs of 1/0 wire from the negative side and three from the positive side....any box help will be appreciated im planning to compete in street B
8 years 9 months ago #2 by Tezzating
This bad boy right here will do you right !

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8 years 9 months ago #3 by Dylan
You should be able to squeeze a 2150 into the factory location in a CRX. You will need as much battery as you can get in street classes.
8 years 9 months ago #4 by Tezzating
Dylan wrote:

You should be able to squeeze a 2150 into the factory location in a CRX. You will need as much battery as you can get in street classes.

It's a very tight fit to get even a normal size (G34) cell into a CRX.. The Optima RT in mine right now needed re-routing of the radiator hoses and clutch pedal :O.

When I fitted the 2150 to that CRX a few years back, we had to change the intake system to get the rear and side clearance.. that was a 4" K&N filter + 3" silicon hose squashed into an oval :P
We removed the high beam booster bulbs on both sides, relocated the relays, and lipped the frame across the top and near the radiator support ;)

Anyway.. that box, those subs and amp and that battery, you would be doing easy 151-152 without much tuning.

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8 years 9 months ago #5 by AK74
Should i dynamat the doors or hatch?
8 years 9 months ago #6 by zion187reigneth
AK74 wrote:

Should i dynamat the doors or hatch?


Most likely, if you have the money and want to remove as much rattles as possible
8 years 9 months ago #7 by Tezzating
Mmmmm for straight out SPL, no. Good & tight fitting doors & hatch is essential. New seals for the doors, hatch, sunroof (if applicable) will help a lot too.

If you're building a daily driver, or building a Bassrace style car, then good seals for the tail lights/garnish, new hatch seal (tight fit too !). Sound deaden across the back, wheel arches, inside the spare wheel well/hatch floor and inside the hatch light area.. it'll hurt the ultimate SPL, but it'll stop the back end getting torn apart !

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